Meteor Crater, Winslow/Holbroke, Petrified Forest/Painted Desert

The next aim on our trip was Petrified Forest N.P. Before we reached it, we drove East on I-40 along the former Highway 66. James' friend Bill had asked us to visit Meteor Crater since we would be passing it anyway. On the Interstate we already saw big billboards advertising for the Crater and asking us to tune in to AM 1670. It seems that the meteor crashed a few thousand years on what is now private property. The owner had built an 8 miles road toe a big parking lot at the edge of the crater. He/she/they had built a big visitor center and wanted to collect $ 15,00 per person for access to the crater's rim (going into the crater is not possible) and a spectacular movie about the meteor impact. Goes without saying that we didn't want to take our chances and did not go and see the the crater (one four corners experience is enough for one vacation).
So we went on to Winslow, where we stood on the corner and made some great pictures of and in the Posada Hotel. Holbrook showed us some of the faded glory of former Route 66 before we headed on to Pertified Forest N.P. Here we admired all the petrified wood that just lay there and looked so real. At a certain spot it looked like someone was chopping wood and all the wood chips were left behind. Of course everything was just stone.

Wupatki/Sunset Crater and Walnut Canyon

We left Grand Canyon a little on the late side. We had planned to do visit an other park on that day: Wupatki N.P. In fact we were unfortunately a little bit too late when we arrived at Wupatki (just North-East of Flagstaff). The good thing about that late hour was, that the first ruins we saw lit up in an unearthly wonderful warm light. The bad thing was that the visitor center was closed and that we ran out of light in no time. We could barely see the Wupatki ruins at the visitor center en it made no sense to drive up to the Wukoki ruins since it was dark by then. Through Sunset Crater Volcano (which of course we couldn't see either) we went to Flagstaff where we spent the night.
The next morning after one of those wonderful American breakfasts, we went to Walnut Canyon National Monument. We walked there in the footsteps of people who lived at Walnut Canyon more than 700 years ago, and who built their cliff dwellings deep within canyon walls. We saw of course only a small part of the canyon: the so called Island. The Island Trail descends 185 feet (56m) into the canyon providing access to some cliff dwellings. We were exhausted after the 240 steps we had to climb back up.

Grand Canyon

Yesterday we spent nearly all day on the South rim of the Grand Canyon. James had never seen the Grand Canyon though he had lived pretty much around it in the last few years (Las Vegas, Grand Junction and Phoenix). I myself had visited the North rim 11 years ago and as far as I remember it was not as spectacular as the what I have seen yesterday.

Spectacular, let me go on with that word, because Grand Canyon is unimaginable BIG: 15 to 20 km wide and 1600 m deep must be called spectacular. On the other hand it is more then I can comprehend. A cliff that is only 300 m high in Canyon de Chelly, has a deeper impact on me since the canyon is narrower. I know it shouldn't make any sense but that's how it feels for me the second time in my live. Don't get me wrong I really liked what I have seen yesterday, I just wanted to describe how my eyes and brains can play tricks with me.

Monument Valley and Canyon de Chelly

Keep in mind what I wrote below under "Indian Friendly" when you read this, since both sites are within the Navajo Nation.

Monument Valley, who doesn't see images of old Westerns before his eyes when he hears this two words. In fact quite a few Westerns especially in the 30's and 40's were really shot here. But as everything in the movies reality is different. My high expectations didn't meet the real landscape. Don't get me wrong the buttes and cliffs and canyons were spectacular, I just had expected them to more isolated from each other in a more outstretched landscape.

Since the valley is on Indian territory, we of course had to pay $ 15,00 for fuzzy map and the use of a crappy unpaved dirt loop road through the valley.

Canyon de Chelly National Monument on the other hand was very spectacular even though it also is Navajo land, that is maintained by the National Park Service. There is no entrance fee and camping is free as well. Accessible without a Navajo guide, on the other hand, are only the two roads that lead along the rim of the canyon(s) and one hike into the canyon to an ancient ruin. Of course we did the hike: it was very nice. We regretted the fact that we were not able to explore the canyon bottoms on our own.

"Indian friendly"

The last two days I am absolutely amazed, that a country that has turned kindness into an art form, houses so many unfriendly Native Americans. For three days now we are either in the Navajo or Hopi Indian Nation, and in restaurants, motels, shops or even on roads or trails a numerous number of people have a very unpleasant way of treating us.

As a European I feel free to comment on this subject, while James sees the same things I see, but maybe for historical reasons keeps a distant from any judgement.

The examples are lots: holding up only a slip of paper with figures when you inquire about the rates of a motel, not greeting us when we wait to be seated in a restaurant or not acknowledge you when you meet them on a hiking trail. The only way they will greet you however along a hiking trail is, if they want to sell something. Vending stuff is very popular around (pre)historic sites (even in a National Monument).

What really pissed me off was an incident today. We were driving up a hill top and a thunderstorm was in the valley. I thought it would be nice to stop for a moment en take some pictures. So I stopped the car and we climbed on a little dirt hill along the way side. No harm was done. Eventually a pick up truck with seven Indians stopped under the hill and the driver gave us a lesson that it was absolutely forbidden to walk on any Indian lands. Keep in mind that there was no sign to tell us, that there was absolutely nothing but dirt and a few bushes around us, and that the only thing we left there were foot prints. While many Indians pollute their own environment with heaps of trash and junk around their spread out trailer dwellings.

I must say that I really had it now. I look forward to tomorrow when we leave the reservations behind us.